7:30 Sharp · Dinner card

Vodka Rigatoni

7:30

Pink, glossy, clinging to every ridge of the pasta, with parmesan snowed over the top: this is the most-ordered pasta in America, and the restaurant version is not better than this one. The sauce is onion, tomato paste, a splash of vodka, and cream, made in one skillet at 6:30 and left there. At 8:00 you boil pasta with a timer running and tip it into the skillet. The hard part of this dish is not eating it out of the pan before she gets there.

Cost for two

$27

Active

25 min

Hands off at

7:25

Allergens

Milk (cream, parmesan), Wheat (rigatoni)

Shopping list · aisle order

Produce

  • 1 Yellow onion
  • 1 head Garlic

Dairy & Cheese

  • 1 pint Heavy cream
  • 1 wedge or tub Parmesan

Pantry & Canned

  • 1 small can Tomato paste
  • 1 box Rigatoni
  • Red pepper flakes

Wine & Beer

  • 1 small bottle Vodka

Pantry (you probably have these)

  • Salt, pepper, olive oil

Gear

One large skillet with a lid (or a plate over it), one big pot with a lid, a colander, a wooden spoon, tongs, a mug (for pasta water), a phone timer.

The 7:30 Timeline

5:30T-120Unpack. Read this page once.
6:20T-70Onion: peel, cut into small rough pieces. Garlic: smash 3 cloves, peel, chop small. Grate the parmesan if it is a wedge.
6:30T-60Skillet on medium, 3 tablespoons oil. Onion in with ½ teaspoon salt. Stir now and then, 6 min, until soft and see-through, not brown.
6:36T-54Garlic in. Stir, 1 min.
6:37T-53Tomato paste in (5 tablespoons). Stir it into the onions, 3 min, until it goes from bright red to brick red and smells sweet.
6:40T-50Skillet off the burner. Pour in ¼ cup vodka. Skillet back on. Stir, 1 min, until it stops smelling sharp.
6:41T-49Heat to low. Cream in (¾ cup), ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, ½ teaspoon salt. Stir until one smooth orange-pink sauce. Simmer 2 min. Heat off. Lid on.
6:45T-45All the cooking work is done. Dishes done, counters wiped. Starter and spritz made.
7:00T-30Big pot three-quarters full of water, 1 tablespoon salt, lid on. Leave it on the stove, burner off.
7:10T-20Shower.
7:20T-10Music on, lights down, table set. Colander in the sink, mug and tongs by the stove, parmesan and flakes by the plates.
7:25T-5Hands off from here. Apron off, apartment check, spritz pitcher and glasses out. Burner under the pot to high, lid on. It boils on its own.
7:30T-0She arrives. She arrives. Nothing on the stove needs you. A pot of water is heating under a lid; it does not need you. Pour the spritz. It covers the next twenty minutes with the starter.
7:45T+15Starter out.
7:50T+20"One minute." Rigatoni in (12 oz), stir once, lid off. Timer: the box time minus 1 min (usually 11). Skillet burner to low. Back to the room.
8:01T+31Timer goes. Dip the mug into the pot for ½ cup water; pour it into the skillet. Drain the pasta in the colander.
8:03T+33Pasta into the skillet. Half the parmesan in. Turn everything with tongs until every tube is pink and glossy. Heat off.
8:08T+38Plate (see Plating). Serve.

Vodka Rigatoni · Method

  1. 1Peel the onion and cut it into small rough pieces, about the size of a pea or a little bigger. Nobody is checking.
  2. 2Smash 3 garlic cloves with the side of a knife, peel, and chop small.
  3. 3If the parmesan is a wedge, grate about ¾ cup on the small holes. Set it aside in a bowl.
  4. 4Put the skillet on medium heat with 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add the onion and ½ teaspoon salt.
  5. 5Stir every minute or so for 6 minutes. Done when the onion is soft and translucent and not yet brown. If it browns at the edges, turn the heat down.
  6. 6Add the garlic. Stir for 1 minute.
  7. 7Add 5 tablespoons tomato paste. Stir it into the onion with the wooden spoon for 3 minutes. It darkens from bright red to brick red and starts to smell sweet instead of tinny. This step is where the flavor comes from; do not skip it.
  8. 8Lift the skillet off the burner before you pour in the vodka; on a gas stove alcohol can flare. Add ¼ cup vodka, put the skillet back, and stir for 1 minute until the sharp smell fades.
  9. 9Turn the heat to low. Pour in ¾ cup cream. Add ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes and ½ teaspoon salt.
  10. 10Stir until the sauce is one smooth pale-orange color with no streaks of red. Let it bubble gently for 2 minutes.
  11. 11Turn the heat off and put the lid on. The sauce holds here until 7:50.
  12. 12At 7:00, fill the big pot three-quarters full with water, add 1 tablespoon salt, and put the lid on. Do not turn it on yet.
  13. 13At 7:25, turn the burner under the pot to high with the lid on.
  14. 14At 7:50, add 12 oz rigatoni to the boiling water and stir once. Set a timer for 1 minute less than the box says (most rigatoni: 11 minutes). Turn the skillet burner to low.
  15. 15At the timer, dip the mug into the pot and take ½ cup of the cloudy water. Pour it into the skillet and stir.
  16. 16Drain the pasta in the colander. Do not rinse.
  17. 17Tip the pasta into the skillet. Add half the parmesan. Turn everything over with tongs for about 30 seconds until every piece is coated and glossy. If it looks tight or pasty, add a splash more pasta water. Turn the heat off.
  18. 18Plate with the rest of the parmesan and a pinch of flakes.

Is it done? No experience needed

Thermometer: not needed. Nothing here is meat. No thermometer: at the timer, bite a piece of rigatoni: it should be firm but not chalky, with no white ring at the center of the wall. The sauce is done at 6:41 when it is one smooth pale-orange color that coats the back of the spoon and leaves a clean line when you drag a finger through it.

The #1 way to screw it up

At 8:03 the sauce is a thick orange paste that clumps on the pasta instead of coating it, because it sat in the skillet for an hour and tightened, and the pasta went in without enough water.

Recovery

Pasta water, ¼ cup at a time, turning with the tongs after each splash, until the sauce slides and shines. The starch in that water is what makes it cling. If you already poured the pot out, hot tap water works, and a spoon of cream on top of that. Thirty seconds and it is the restaurant version again.

Plating

Warm two wide shallow bowls under the hot tap for 20 seconds and dry them, then pile the pasta high in the center of each rather than spreading it out. Grate or scatter the rest of the parmesan over the top from a foot up so it snows onto everything. Finish with a pinch of red pepper flakes and a thin thread of olive oil around the mound, and bring the bowls out together.

Vegetarian swap

It already is. ASSUMPTION: most parmesan is made with animal rennet; if she is strict about that, buy a parmesan labeled "vegetarian" (BelGioioso marks theirs) or use a pecorino that says the same. Same skillet, same timeline. For a vegan guest: a can of full-fat coconut cream in place of the heavy cream and skip the parmesan; it is a different, sweeter dish, but it is still pink and glossy.

What to pour

Wine. a Chianti or a soft Pinot Noir — Ruffino Chianti, about $10, or Mark West Pinot Noir, about $10. Tomato and cream want red fruit, not oak.

Beer. Peroni.

No alcohol. blood-orange San Pellegrino over ice; the bitterness cuts the cream.

The practice run. Cook this once on a weeknight for yourself before the real night. Twenty dollars of groceries buys you the one thing the card can't: having done it before. 730sharp.com